The Real Tuscany

What do you think of when you hear the name, Tuscany? Most of us have a picture in our minds of rolling hills filled with vineyards, sun flowers, and ruins of farmhouses atop those hills. Perhaps a flock of sheep crossing the road, or rolls of hay amid freshly cut fields of Durham and Semolina wheat? Now, since Tuscany is a region, which names of towns come to mind? Chianti, Siena, Florence...? Well, if so, you wouldn't be wrong, but when it comes to that picture in your mind, you might be disappointed when you arrive in Chianti or Florence. The truth is that the most photographed part of Tuscany lies right here in the Val D'Orcia. But until you read this blog, had you ever heard of such a place? Probably not. That is because those postcards all have photos of these rolling hills, then slap the name TUSCANY across them. This myth is not only apparent to foreign travelers, but for Italians as well. They may know it as one hour from Siena, or near Montepulciano, or even just wine and olive oil country. But ask about Pienza or San Quirico and you will just get puzzled looks. So, why all these monikers and approximations? Difficult to say, and perhaps it is better this way. Those who are aware of this secret, though frequently upset by the misnomer, may be just as happy to keep it to themselves so it doesn't become overrun with tourists like so many other well known towns.

The Val D'Orcia has been protected, since 2004, as an UNESCO World Heritage site, with strict regulations on what you can and especially cannot do with the land and buildings. Much of the agricultural traditions have also been preserved. This ensures that the area does not get bought up by developers who might want to take the land and slap shopping centers in the middle of it. Or even less obvious problems such as a private party coming in and buying a dilapidated farm house, tearing out a wall to add bay windows and digging a hole for a swimming pool, then painting the entire thing their favorite shade of Pepto-pink. In Isabella's words, there's no limit to imaginations and personal desires. When Pienza became a historical site, the people of the town said, why not the entire valley? That process began back in 1996. So now, our lovely Agritourismo Cretaiole sits smack in the middle of this beautiful landscape, now preserved in the way it that it is depicted in all of those postcards and movie scenes and in your mind's eye. The way it should be. This is so important to understand because when you finally do get the opportunity to come and visit "Tuscany" you will get to see it as it was meant to be seen. Just be sure to visit the Val D'Orcia, or more specifically La Famiglia Moricianni at Cretaiole, for simply the best experience of the Real Tuscany.

GJ