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Monday, June 20, 2011

La Dolce Vita (The sweet life)

Sunday, 6/19
This morning we awakened to a different sort of alarm clock. Remember now, this is a farm, not a hotel. Greg shot out of bed, and armed himself with a fly swatter, for he had heard the distinct frequency of bees. (No, the irony is not lost on us, we do recall having our garage being invaded by a swarm of bees before leaving on this trip). Luckily this was only two or three buzzing bugs. It turns out a nest was disturbed yesterday so they were probably just trying to relocate. Anyway, wide awake we headed to the veranda to go over the week's schedule with Isabella. So many events and activities are offered it is hard to keep track, but she has something for everyone. Most of the events are included in the price of the room, so we hope to take advantage of all of those. A few are meals and activities that your group can participate in for a reasonable fee. Greg and I have chosen a few extras to make this week special. So what will we be doing all week in Tuscany? Good question, I've decided to keep it a surprise for our readers and reveal what we've done each day. So today we went to the family farm. Isabella was our tour guide and explained how they produce all the farm products. She simplified the art of wine making so that even the children in the room could comprehend the process. "We add only enough sulfite to kill the bad yeast, the good yeast live and do the very important job of eating up the sugars and converting them to alcohol." I get it! She also explained that adding the fewest amount of additives means that you make "table wine" it will only last about one year, so you have to drink it up and share it with your guests. Also it is the extra sulfites that most wine makers use that give you headaches and stomach aches. Carlo claimed that their wine is hangover free, they claim that you can drink as much as you want and no problem. Though I've not put this theory to the test, we've had their wine for lunch and dinner for two days (Greg even had a glass after breakfast) and we are feeling healthy as ever. That has a lot to do with Luciano's vegetable patch and how we've spent virtually zero Euro on dinners for the last two nights. Back on the farm, we were invited to taste cellar aged peccorino, prosciutto, red and white wine, and olive oil. We got to smell the olive oil in its vat, like cut grass with fruity tones, and taste it on fresh Italian bread. It is pure heaven. So how did the vegetarians do with the prosciutto? (Remember we've decided to be flexitarians for this trip...) Well we tried it, and the verdict: salty tender bliss. As all who know me are aware, I am a cheese lover. So when Luciano cut the peccorino into generous slices and instructed us to spread it with jam and honey, I was on cloud nine. This simple spread and some wine was the perfect light lunch. At this point all the guests were very happy to go tramping around the farm meeting the animals. Kittens, loyal labs, chickens and chicks, geese and goslings, the biggest mama pig I have ever met... Mama pig was 4 years old, had one group of grown pigs in a pen next to her and was 3 months along in her second gestation, due to deliver in August. We also learned that the chickens sit on the goose eggs and vice versa, they won't sit on their own eggs, very strange. All of this was explained in Italian by Luciano, as our English speaking guide Isabella had gone to put her 3 year old down for siesta. Today my nickname changed to Mela (meaning apple, Greg says because I'm the apple of Luciano's eye). As he passed me a baby bunny to hold, he explained to those around me who were petting it that you need to stroke its head, and all animals, like this. Just like Melissa pats the head of her San Gregorio. Already, he knows us so well. Amazing his patience with us and how much we are able to comprehend! We also learned that his Renault (for those who aren't car buffs, like me, this is a funky old French car) is his true passion. After our time on the farm, we headed off to a local festival complete with a parade, flag throwing, and archery. The people of this area are so beautiful, men and women alike have such a pure radiance and pride. Not much makeup, or fancy clothes just a glow and a joy that makes their features seem flawless and allows their inner beauty to shine through. Now back at our farm house, we've eaten thinly sliced zucchini with grated lemon rind, basil, onion, and carrot. Squash blossoms stuffed with some of the cheese we purchased from the farm today, and cucumber marinated with onion, parsley and olive oil and balsamic vinegar served on lettuce. Can you even believe how we are feasting with the help of this vegetable patch. I haven't seen other guests approach it yet, but I go out each evening with my cloth bag and come back with a sack full of verdura (vegetable) game. Earlier today I exclaimed to Luciano that this was indeed, "la dolce vita." Yes, he said, it was for me, but for him this is work! Fair enough, Luciano, but I think we both agree it is a labor of love!

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